Amsterdamse Bos

My buddy Sander runs in the Amsterdamse Bos every Saturday morning, and when I asked why not Vondelpark, he looked at me like I’d suggested a treadmill. ‘The Bos is different,’ he said. And he’s right. It’s three times the size of Central Park, and honestly, it feels like a whole other world. You can run or bike along winding paths, row on a lake, or wander through actual forest where the city is nowhere to be seen. It’s a nature escape that’s only a tram ride away from the city center.

The park is on the border of Amsterdam and Amstelveen, tucked into the oud-zuid area. It’s huge — 1000 hectares — so you’ll want to download a map before you go. Otherwise, you might get lost in the sprawling trails. There are paths for both runners and cyclists, and if you’re into it, you can even rent a rowboat at the lake. The goat farm, Geitenboerderij, is free to visit and serves goat cheese and goat ice cream — yes, real goat ice cream. It’s a weirdly satisfying treat.

There’s also a pancake house by the lake where Dutch pancakes are served the size of your head. My roommate and I always stop there after our runs. I get the bacon and cheese version every time. It’s not just a pancake — it’s a full meal, and the portions are huge. The outdoor theater is another draw, especially in summer when it’s packed with shows and concerts.

I’d recommend going early in the morning, especially if you’re into running or cycling. It’s peaceful and quiet before the crowds arrive. Thursday or Friday are better than weekend mornings, because it gets busy on Saturdays and Sundays. Bring good shoes — the trails are mostly dirt and gravel — and don’t forget to bring a water bottle. It’s free to enter, but some attractions like the pancake house and the goat farm have individual costs.

The Bos is best in spring and summer, but autumn is genuinely beautiful. The leaves turn and the air is crisp. It’s a great spot for a picnic or a quiet afternoon walk. There’s also luggage storage via Drop&Go if you’re planning a longer visit. Parking is free in most areas, but not at the main entrance. If you’re coming from the Jordaan, it’s about 25 minutes by bike or a tram ride on line 5.

One downside is that it’s easy to get lost without a map. The park is so big that it’s easy to wander off track. Also, not all facilities are open year-round. The pancake house and outdoor theater, for example, close in winter. If you’re planning a visit, check the official website for updated hours.

If you’re in Amsterdam and want a break from the city hustle, the Amsterdamse Bos is a solid option. It’s free, it’s peaceful, and it’s got everything from goat cheese to rowing. You can get there quickly and spend the whole day without ever seeing another tourist. My friend Sara always says she feels like she’s in the countryside, even though it’s only a few kilometers from the canal ring. It’s a real treat.

Check if that deal’s still on — the pancake house is a real draw, and it’s worth the trip just for the giant Dutch pancakes.